Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Charmois Paul Pillot 2023

There is a little more generosity to Les Charmois than some of Saint-Aubin’s more austere, high-slope expressions, but in Thierry Pillot’s hands it remains beautifully controlled. Ripe lemon, white peach and pear lead the nose, followed by citrus blossom, hazelnut and a subtle smoky, struck-stone note. The palate has lovely breadth through the middle, with fleshy orchard fruit and citrus oil giving a sense of richness before bright acidity and chalky minerality pull everything back into focus. The finish is long and composed, bringing together lemon peel, fine spice and a saline edge that leaves the wine feeling energetic rather than weighty.

Les Charmois lies on the Chassagne-Montrachet side of Saint-Aubin, adjoining the Chassagne 1er Cru Les Chaumées and close to some of the Côte de Beaune’s most celebrated Chardonnay vineyards. The site can produce Saint-Aubin with both flesh and mineral definition, a combination particularly well suited to Thierry Pillot’s restrained approach to élevage. The 2023 balances that natural generosity with the domaine’s hallmark precision, resulting in a Premier Cru that is already expressive but has the structure and tension to develop considerable complexity with bottle age.