Chassagne-Montrachet Paul Pillot 2023

Cool, finely chiselled and remarkably assured, this is Chassagne that favours tension and clarity over obvious richness. The 2023 opens with white peach, lemon zest and crisp pear, but becomes increasingly complex in the glass as notes of white flowers, hazelnut, citrus oil and struck stone begin to emerge. The palate has lovely concentration without feeling heavy, with tightly drawn citrus and orchard fruit wrapped around bright acidity. Subtle oak and lees influence add texture rather than flavour, before the wine narrows into a long, chalky finish marked by lemon peel, mineral tension and a distinctly saline edge.

Under Thierry Pillot, Domaine Paul Pillot has become one of Chassagne-Montrachet’s most sought-after addresses, producing Chardonnay with exceptional transparency and restraint. This village cuvée provides a particularly compelling introduction to that style, drawing on the domaine’s holdings around Chassagne and receiving the same meticulous attention as its Premier Crus. The 2023 combines the natural breadth of the appellation with Pillot’s signature freshness and precision, resulting in a white Burgundy that is already beautifully expressive but has the structure to become more complex with bottle age.