Domaine Bretaudeau Gabbro Muscadet 2023 | Organic

This is Muscadet operating at a completely different level from the simple, brisk wines traditionally associated with the appellation. There is an almost crystalline quality to Gabbro, beginning with lemon oil, green pear and white flowers before more savoury notes of crushed stone, sea salt and faint smoke emerge. The palate has impressive density for Melon de Bourgogne, with concentrated citrus and orchard fruit wrapped around a taut, mineral core. Long lees ageing gives it shape and texture without softening its energy; the finish is penetrating, saline and subtly bitter, with remarkable persistence.

Jérôme Bretaudeau has become one of the leading figures in the modern revival of serious Muscadet. This cuvée comes from the Clos des Bouquinardières vineyard in Gorges, a historic site planted on gabbro – the dark, iron-rich magmatic rock that gives the wine its name. The 100% Melon de Bourgogne is biodynamically farmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts and given extended ageing on its lees in underground vats. The result has more in common with serious terroir-driven Loire white than everyday Muscadet: focused, complex and capable of developing beautifully with bottle age.