Bolgheri, in Tuscany's coastal region of Maremma, first rose to prominence during the 1970s with the emergence of Super Tuscan wines like Ornellaia and Sassicaia. These wines were made outside of the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (D.O.C.) guidelines, so had to be labelled as Vino da Tavola (table wine); pretty remarkable considering the prices they commanded! It seemed erroneous to label them in this way when they were superior to the norm, so the the term Super Tuscan was born. Finally, in 1994, the authorities relented. They recognised Bolgheri, its grape varieties and techniques, and awarded it D.O.C. status.This San Fiorenzo is made by Chianti producer San Felice, and represents brilliant value for Bolgheri. A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, it has aromas of ripe black fruits and plum compote with lifted minty notes. Oodles of richly structured layers of bramble and black cherry fruit balanced by savoury, cedar and capsicum notes, firm tannins and a twist of sour cherry acidity on the finish. Stunning.