Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Pitangerets Paul Pillot 2023

Les Pitangerets has a wonderfully cool, energetic personality, showing the more incisive side of Paul Pillot’s Chardonnay. The 2023 begins with lemon blossom, green pear and white peach before revealing grapefruit zest, crushed chalk and a subtle smoky reduction. The palate is taut and beautifully focused, with citrus and orchard fruit held firmly by vivid acidity and a stony mineral backbone. There is a little more flesh through the middle as the wine opens, bringing hints of hazelnut and citrus oil, but it never loses its sense of momentum. The finish is long, saline and mouth-watering, with chalk and citrus lingering well after the fruit has faded.

Saint-Aubin’s best Premier Cru vineyards have become increasingly sought after for their ability to deliver the tension and mineral precision associated with neighbouring Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. Les Pitangerets sits high on the slope, where its cooler exposition naturally favours freshness and definition. Thierry Pillot’s restrained winemaking plays perfectly to those strengths, resulting in a 2023 of clarity and finesse rather than overt richness. A beautifully detailed white Burgundy that should become increasingly expressive with time in bottle.