Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint Jean Rouge Paul Pillot 2022

There is more generosity here than in the cooler, more linear vintages of this wine, but the 2022 never loses the delicacy and energy that define Thierry Pillot’s reds. Ripe red cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry lead the nose, joined by violet, rosehip and a subtle savoury spice. The palate is supple and beautifully proportioned, with succulent red fruit sitting over fine, gently grippy tannins. As the wine opens, darker cherry, dried herbs and a touch of earthy minerality emerge, while bright acidity keeps the ripe vintage character firmly in check. The finish is persistent rather than powerful, gradually moving from sweet red fruit towards spice, stone and a lightly savoury edge.

Clos Saint-Jean is one of Chassagne-Montrachet’s historic Premier Cru vineyards and was traditionally celebrated as much for Pinot Noir as Chardonnay. Its position above the village produces reds with both structure and aromatic detail, and Thierry Pillot’s restrained approach to extraction allows that character to come through with unusual clarity. The warm, successful 2022 vintage adds an extra degree of flesh and immediacy, making this particularly seductive now, although there is enough structure beneath the fruit for rewarding development in bottle.