Bourgogne Aligote Paul Pillot 2023

This is Aligoté with the sort of precision and seriousness you would expect from one of Chassagne-Montrachet’s most admired growers. The nose is cool and restrained at first, revealing lemon zest, crisp green apple and white flowers before touches of crushed stone, fresh herbs and citrus oil begin to emerge. The palate is taut and energetic, with incisive acidity giving real drive to the citrus and orchard fruit. There is more texture through the middle than the grape’s reputation might suggest, before a chalky, saline character takes control of the long, mouth-watering finish.

Paul Pillot is a historic Chassagne-Montrachet domaine now led by Thierry Pillot, whose finely judged, terroir-focused wines have developed an international following. While Aligoté has traditionally lived in the shadow of Chardonnay, in the hands of a grower of this calibre it becomes something altogether more compelling. There is no attempt to turn it into a miniature white Burgundy Chardonnay; instead, its natural tension, citrus character and mineral bite are allowed to shine. A brilliant aperitif, but serious enough for oysters, shellfish, goat’s cheese or simply drinking on its own.