Bourgogne Aligote Paul Pillot 2022

Far removed from the lean, straightforward style once associated with Aligoté, Paul Pillot’s 2022 has both substance and remarkable precision. The nose is cool and subtly expressive, with lemon peel, green apple and greengage joined by white flowers, fresh herbs and a faint smoky note. The warmer 2022 vintage brings a little extra weight to the palate, giving the citrus and orchard fruit a pleasing ripeness, but the variety’s naturally vivid acidity keeps everything taut and energetic. Crushed stone and citrus oil emerge towards the finish, which is dry, saline and impressively persistent.

From one of Chassagne-Montrachet’s most admired domaines, this is treated as a serious wine rather than an afterthought to the estate’s Chardonnay. Under Thierry Pillot, the emphasis is on freshness, restrained élevage and transparency, allowing Aligoté’s naturally incisive personality to remain front and centre. The generosity of 2022 gives this vintage particular appeal, adding texture and fruit without sacrificing the mineral bite that makes the variety so refreshing. A brilliant alternative to Chardonnay and a particularly versatile bottle at the table.