Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru Georges Lignier 2015

Powerful yet refined, this Bonnes-Mares opens with aromas of black cherry, blackberry, and plum, layered with violet, spice, and subtle notes of forest floor and graphite. The palate is dense and structured, showing concentrated dark fruit, firm but polished tannins, and impressive depth balanced by freshness. Deep ruby-garnet in colour, it finishes long, savoury, and persistent, with layers of spice, mineral tension, and dark fruit unfolding over time.

Bonnes-Mares is one of Burgundy’s most formidable Grand Crus, straddling Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis and famed for combining muscle with finesse. Georges Lignier’s interpretation emphasises structure, purity, and longevity, allowing the vineyard’s natural power to speak clearly. The warm, generous 2015 vintage delivered exceptional ripeness and concentration, producing a Grand Cru of authority and balance — built for long ageing and capable of remarkable complexity with time.

Palish red with a hint of amber. A bit cooler and more peppery than the Clos Saint-Denis and Clos de la Roche, with its reticent red fruit aromas complicated by herbs and menthol. Then densely packed, savory and intense, more about soil tones than primary fruit. Not a sweet style but youthfully penetrating. Finishes sweet, slightly medicinal and classically dry, with lingering salty and spicy qualities. A rather rigorous wine in the context of the vintage, but then this is Bonnes-Mares, which has traditionally been one of Burgundy's longest-aging grand crus. (ST)

Stephen Tanzer, January 2018, Score: 92+